Talk:Problem with garbled screen - Revision history

DrDick: /* 2007 */

2007-11-14T14:31:46Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-27T06:37:49Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-26T13:58:00Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-26T13:53:54Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-26T13:52:37Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-26T13:48:20Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-26T10:59:31Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-26T10:58:34Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-26T10:56:39Z

‎2007

Markusw: /* 2007 */

2007-08-26T10:52:30Z

‎2007

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:31, 14 November 2007
Line 116:		Line 116:

	The blue lines are almost completely gone, very small areas occasionally show up. Therefore I probably will repeat the procedure, if it gets annoying again. However, the black lines in glxgears (I am using Linux on my TP) and in videos displayed by kaffein and similar players did not come back so far. :-) I also have the impression, that the temperature of the air from the fan is not as hot as it used to be, as is the temperature of the lower side of the notebook. This part used to become quite hot. I put the fan to maximum power by ''sudo sh -c "echo 0x2F 0x07 > /proc/acpi/ibm/ecdump"'' (for kubuntu Linux).		The blue lines are almost completely gone, very small areas occasionally show up. Therefore I probably will repeat the procedure, if it gets annoying again. However, the black lines in glxgears (I am using Linux on my TP) and in videos displayed by kaffein and similar players did not come back so far. :-) I also have the impression, that the temperature of the air from the fan is not as hot as it used to be, as is the temperature of the lower side of the notebook. This part used to become quite hot. I put the fan to maximum power by ''sudo sh -c "echo 0x2F 0x07 > /proc/acpi/ibm/ecdump"'' (for kubuntu Linux).
		+
		+
		+	November 14, 2007 TP240 with no/garbled screen.
		+
		+	I disassembled the screen and opened the case to examine connections but found no obvious problems. On reassembly I left out the plastic piece covering the video flat cable next to the left hinge. The screen then worked perfectly. With the plastic cover back in place the problem came back, so I left it out. The garbled screen shows up infrequently now, but it is quickly fixed by slight shifting/lifting movement of the left side of the visible cable with a toothpick. I seldom need it now, but I keep a sturdy toothpick taped to the laptop. --[[User:DrDick\|DrDick]] 14:31, 14 November 2007 (UTC)
		+	'''Bold text'''

	== VESA Driver ==		== VESA Driver ==

@@ Line 109: / Line 109: @@
 * Part II, getting the heat away from the GPU
-** Cut out some Cu-sheet that we can have a bridge between the GPU an the Cu-block of the fan assembly. Leave some space so that the CPU still can make contact to the Cu-block of the fan assembly.  [[Image:Mw_tp06.jpg|50px|6]], [[Image:Mw_tp07.jpg|50px|7]]
+** Cut out some Cu-sheet that we can have a bridge between the GPU and the Cu-block of the fan assembly. Leave some space so that the CPU still can make contact to the Cu-block of the fan assembly.  [[Image:Mw_tp06.jpg|50px|6]], [[Image:Mw_tp07.jpg|50px|7]]
 ** Fixed it to the assembly by some self made clamps (I used the steel band from a binder). In a first version I bent the Cu-sheet around the fan-assembly, but the side wings became to high on top of the assembly so that the original fixating metal sheet (the one you have to take away in order to lift the fan assembly) pushed my Cu-sheet down, probably loosing it from the fan-assembly on the lower side. [[Image:Mw_tp08.jpg|50px|9]], [[Image:Mw_tp09.jpg|50px|10]]
 ** Put heat conducting paste between the Cu-block and the Cu-sheet as well as between the ATI-chip and then Cu-sheet before. Make sure that the end of the bridge makes good contact to the chip and by this giving way for air entering the fan. [[Image:Mw_tp10.jpg|50px|11]]

@@ Line 100: / Line 100: @@
 * Part I
 ** Bought a heat gun ( I am not brave enough to try the fire solution, see post above), Cu-sheet (0.5 mm thick), metal shears and heat conducting paste
-** Open up the the computer (followed the pretty detailed IBM manual, chapter ''Changing the CPU'', Fig. 1) [[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|50px|1]]
+** Open up the the computer (followed the pretty detailed IBM manual, chapter ''Changing the CPU'') [[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|50px|1]]
-** glue an empty Al-container of a tea light by using some heat conducting paste on the ATI-chip. I thought this is useful for not blowing away the Al-container with the heat gun and for making a good heat contact to the ATI-chip. Take care that the container stands free. Stress might shift the ATI-chip during re-soldering (?) (Figs. 2 and 3).[[Image:Mw_tp02.jpg|50px|2]], [[Image:Mw_tp03.jpg|50px|3]]
+** glue an empty Al-container of a tea light by using some heat conducting paste on the ATI-chip. I thought this is useful for not blowing away the Al-container with the heat gun and for making a good heat contact to the ATI-chip. Take care that the container stands free. Stress might shift the ATI-chip during re-soldering (?).[[Image:Mw_tp02.jpg|50px|2]], [[Image:Mw_tp03.jpg|50px|3]]
-** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (I got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board (Fig. 4). [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|50px|4]]
+** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (I got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board. [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|50px|4]]
 ** Put a small piece of solder (1 mm diameter) into the Al-pot as an temperature indicator.
-** I tested this assembly before, outside the computer to get a feeling for distance and time. With my heat gun (rated temperature 375°C), it took about 30 s to melt the solder while holding the gun about 10 cm away (Fig. 5). [[Image:Mw_tp11.jpg|50px|5]]
+** I tested this assembly before, outside the computer to get a feeling for distance and time. With my heat gun (rated temperature 375°C), it took about 30 s to melt the solder while holding the gun about 10 cm away. [[Image:Mw_tp11.jpg|50px|5]]
 ** Then the really exciting part: melt the solder in the Al-container on the ATI-chip. I gradually decreased the distance to the Al-pot until the solder got molten into a droplet. On the computer I had to come closer (distance about 5 cm) to melt the solder, indicating that I had some heat contact to the ATI-chip. :-)
-** Uff, it's still working (Fig. 6). [[Image:Mw_tp05.jpg|50px|6]]
+** Removed the Al-container, reconnect the keyboard, harddisk, ... and uff, it's still working. [[Image:Mw_tp05.jpg|50px|6]]
 * Part II, getting the heat away from the GPU
-** Cut out some Cu-sheet that we can have a bridge between the GPU an the Cu-block of the fan assembly. Leave some space so that the CPU still can make contact to the Cu-block of the fan assembly (Figs. 7 and 8).  [[Image:Mw_tp06.jpg|50px|6]], [[Image:Mw_tp07.jpg|50px|7]]
+** Cut out some Cu-sheet that we can have a bridge between the GPU an the Cu-block of the fan assembly. Leave some space so that the CPU still can make contact to the Cu-block of the fan assembly.  [[Image:Mw_tp06.jpg|50px|6]], [[Image:Mw_tp07.jpg|50px|7]]
-** Fixed it to the assembly by some self made clamps (I used the steel band from a binder). In a first version I bent the Cu-sheet around the fan-assembly, but the side wings became to high on top of the assembly so that the original fixating metal sheet (the one you have to take away in order to lift the fan assembly) pushed my Cu-sheet down, probably loosing it from the fan-assembly on the lower side (Figs. 9 and 10). [[Image:Mw_tp08.jpg|50px|9]], [[Image:Mw_tp09.jpg|50px|10]]
+** Fixed it to the assembly by some self made clamps (I used the steel band from a binder). In a first version I bent the Cu-sheet around the fan-assembly, but the side wings became to high on top of the assembly so that the original fixating metal sheet (the one you have to take away in order to lift the fan assembly) pushed my Cu-sheet down, probably loosing it from the fan-assembly on the lower side. [[Image:Mw_tp08.jpg|50px|9]], [[Image:Mw_tp09.jpg|50px|10]]
-** Put heat conducting paste between the Cu-block and the Cu-sheet as well as between the ATI-chip and then Cu-sheet before. Make sure that the end of the bridge makes good contact to the chip and by this giving way for air entering the fan (Fig. 11). [[Image:Mw_tp10.jpg|50px|11]]
+** Put heat conducting paste between the Cu-block and the Cu-sheet as well as between the ATI-chip and then Cu-sheet before. Make sure that the end of the bridge makes good contact to the chip and by this giving way for air entering the fan. [[Image:Mw_tp10.jpg|50px|11]]
 ** I also covered the edges of the CPU as well as the motherboard with some adhesive tape as electrical insulation.
 ** putting everything back in place (this is actually typed on the re-soldered machine :-))
-The blue lines are almost completely gone, very small areas occasionally show up. Therefore I probably will repeat the procedure, if gets annoying again. However, the black lines in glxgears (I am using linux on my TP) and in videos displayed by kaffein and similar players did not come back so far. :-) I also have the impression, that the temperature of the air from the fan is not as hot as it used to be, as is the temperature of the lower side of the notebook. This part used to become quite hot. I put the fan to maximum power by ''sudo  sh -c "echo 0x2F 0x07 > /proc/acpi/ibm/ecdump"'' (for kubuntu linux).
+The blue lines are almost completely gone, very small areas occasionally show up. Therefore I probably will repeat the procedure, if it gets annoying again. However, the black lines in glxgears (I am using Linux on my TP) and in videos displayed by kaffein and similar players did not come back so far. :-) I also have the impression, that the temperature of the air from the fan is not as hot as it used to be, as is the temperature of the lower side of the notebook. This part used to become quite hot. I put the fan to maximum power by ''sudo  sh -c "echo 0x2F 0x07 > /proc/acpi/ibm/ecdump"'' (for kubuntu Linux).
 == VESA Driver ==

@@ Line 101: / Line 101: @@
 ** Bought a heat gun ( I am not brave enough to try the fire solution, see post above), Cu-sheet (0.5 mm thick), metal shears and heat conducting paste
 ** Open up the the computer (followed the pretty detailed IBM manual, chapter ''Changing the CPU'', Fig. 1) [[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|50px|1]]
-** glue an empty Al-container of a tea light by using some heat conducting paste on the ATI-chip. I thought this is useful for not blowing away the Al-container with the heat gun and for making a good heat contact to the ATI-chip. Take care that the container stands free. Stress might shift the ATI-chip during re-soldering (?) (Figs. 2 and 3).[[Image:Mw_tp02.jpg|thumb|50px|2]], [[Image:Mw_tp03.jpg|thumb|50px|3]]
+** glue an empty Al-container of a tea light by using some heat conducting paste on the ATI-chip. I thought this is useful for not blowing away the Al-container with the heat gun and for making a good heat contact to the ATI-chip. Take care that the container stands free. Stress might shift the ATI-chip during re-soldering (?) (Figs. 2 and 3).[[Image:Mw_tp02.jpg|50px|2]], [[Image:Mw_tp03.jpg|50px|3]]
-** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (I got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board (Fig. 4). [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|thumb|50px|4]]
+** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (I got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board (Fig. 4). [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|50px|4]]
 ** Put a small piece of solder (1 mm diameter) into the Al-pot as an temperature indicator.
-** I tested this assembly before, outside the computer to get a feeling for distance and time. With my heat gun (rated temperature 375°C), it took about 30 s to melt the solder while holding the gun about 10 cm away (Fig. 5). [[Image:Mw_tp11.jpg|thumb|50px|5]]
+** I tested this assembly before, outside the computer to get a feeling for distance and time. With my heat gun (rated temperature 375°C), it took about 30 s to melt the solder while holding the gun about 10 cm away (Fig. 5). [[Image:Mw_tp11.jpg|50px|5]]
 ** Then the really exciting part: melt the solder in the Al-container on the ATI-chip. I gradually decreased the distance to the Al-pot until the solder got molten into a droplet. On the computer I had to come closer (distance about 5 cm) to melt the solder, indicating that I had some heat contact to the ATI-chip. :-)
-** Uff, it's still working (Fig. 6). [[Image:Mw_tp05.jpg|thumb|50px|6]]
+** Uff, it's still working (Fig. 6). [[Image:Mw_tp05.jpg|50px|6]]
 * Part II, getting the heat away from the GPU
-** Cut out some Cu-sheet that we can have a bridge between the GPU an the Cu-block of the fan assembly. Leave some space so that the CPU still can make contact to the Cu-block of the fan assembly (Figs. 7 and 8).  [[Image:Mw_tp06.jpg|thumb|50px|6]], [[Image:Mw_tp07.jpg|thumb|50px|7]]
+** Cut out some Cu-sheet that we can have a bridge between the GPU an the Cu-block of the fan assembly. Leave some space so that the CPU still can make contact to the Cu-block of the fan assembly (Figs. 7 and 8).  [[Image:Mw_tp06.jpg|50px|6]], [[Image:Mw_tp07.jpg|50px|7]]
-** Fixed it to the assembly by some self made clamps (I used the steel band from a binder). In a first version I bent the Cu-sheet around the fan-assembly, but the side wings became to high on top of the assembly so that the original fixating metal sheet (the one you have to take away in order to lift the fan assembly) pushed my Cu-sheet down, probably loosing it from the fan-assembly on the lower side (Figs. 9 and 10). [[Image:Mw_tp08.jpg|thumb|50px|9]], [[Image:Mw_tp09.jpg|thumb|50px|10]]
+** Fixed it to the assembly by some self made clamps (I used the steel band from a binder). In a first version I bent the Cu-sheet around the fan-assembly, but the side wings became to high on top of the assembly so that the original fixating metal sheet (the one you have to take away in order to lift the fan assembly) pushed my Cu-sheet down, probably loosing it from the fan-assembly on the lower side (Figs. 9 and 10). [[Image:Mw_tp08.jpg|50px|9]], [[Image:Mw_tp09.jpg|50px|10]]
-** Put heat conducting paste between the Cu-block and the Cu-sheet as well as between the ATI-chip and then Cu-sheet before. Make sure that the end of the bridge makes good contact to the chip and by this giving way for air entering the fan (Fig. 11). [[Image:Mw_tp10.jpg|thumb|50px|11]]
+** Put heat conducting paste between the Cu-block and the Cu-sheet as well as between the ATI-chip and then Cu-sheet before. Make sure that the end of the bridge makes good contact to the chip and by this giving way for air entering the fan (Fig. 11). [[Image:Mw_tp10.jpg|50px|11]]
 ** I also covered the edges of the CPU as well as the motherboard with some adhesive tape as electrical insulation.
 ** putting everything back in place (this is actually typed on the re-soldered machine :-))

@@ Line 100: / Line 100: @@
 * Part I
 ** Bought a heat gun ( I am not brave enough to try the fire solution, see post above), Cu-sheet (0.5 mm thick), metal shears and heat conducting paste
-** Open up the the computer (followed the pretty detailed IBM manual, chapter ''Changing the CPU'', Fig. 1) [[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|thumb|50px|1]]
+** Open up the the computer (followed the pretty detailed IBM manual, chapter ''Changing the CPU'', Fig. 1) [[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|50px|1]]
 ** glue an empty Al-container of a tea light by using some heat conducting paste on the ATI-chip. I thought this is useful for not blowing away the Al-container with the heat gun and for making a good heat contact to the ATI-chip. Take care that the container stands free. Stress might shift the ATI-chip during re-soldering (?) (Figs. 2 and 3).[[Image:Mw_tp02.jpg|thumb|50px|2]], [[Image:Mw_tp03.jpg|thumb|50px|3]]
 ** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (I got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board (Fig. 4). [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|thumb|50px|4]]

@@ Line 112: / Line 112: @@
 ** Fixed it to the assembly by some self made clamps (I used the steel band from a binder). In a first version I bent the Cu-sheet around the fan-assembly, but the side wings became to high on top of the assembly so that the original fixating metal sheet (the one you have to take away in order to lift the fan assembly) pushed my Cu-sheet down, probably loosing it from the fan-assembly on the lower side. [[Image:Mw_tp08.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 8]], [[Image:Mw_tp09.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 9]]
 ** Put heat conducting paste between the Cu-block and the Cu-sheet as well as between the ATI-chip and then Cu-sheet before. Make sure that the end of the bridge makes good contact to the chip and by this giving way for air entering the fan. [[Image:Mw_tp10.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 10]]
-** I also covered the CPU as well as the motherboard with some adhesive tape as electrical insulation.
+** I also covered the edges of the CPU as well as the motherboard with some adhesive tape as electrical insulation.
 The blue lines are almost completely gone, very small areas occasionally show up. Therefore I probably will repeat the procedure. However, the black lines in glxgears (I am using linux on my TP) and in videos displayed by kaffein and similar players did not come back so far. :-) I also have the impression, that the temperature of the air from the fan is not as hot as it used to be, as is the temperature of the lower side of the notebook. This part used to become quite hot. I put the fan to maximum power by ''sudo  sh -c "echo 0x2F 0x07 > /proc/acpi/ibm/ecdump"'' (for kubuntu linux).

@@ Line 100: / Line 100: @@
 * Part I
 ** Bought a heat gun, Cu-sheet (0.5 mm thick), metal shears and heat conducting paste
-** Open up the the computer (followed the pretty detailed IBM manual, chapter ''Changing the CPU'', [[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 1]]
+** Open up the the computer (followed the pretty detailed IBM manual, chapter ''Changing the CPU'') [[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 1]]
 ** glue an empty Al-container of a tea light by using some heat conducting paste on the ATI-chip. I thought this is useful for not blowing away the Al-container with the heat gun and for making a good heat contact to the ATI-chip. Take care that the container stands free. Stress might shift the ATI-chip during re-soldering (?).[[Image:Mw_tp02.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 2]], [[Image:Mw_tp03.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 3]]
-** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (remember it got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board... [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 4]]
+** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (I got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board... [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 4]]
 ** Put a small piece of solder (1 mm diameter) into the Al-pot as an temperature indicator.
 ** I tested this assembly before, outside the computer to get a feeling for distance and time. With my heat gun (rated temperature 375°C), it took about 30 s to melt the solder while holding the gun about 10 cm away. [[Image:Mw_tp11.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 5]]

@@ Line 101: / Line 101: @@
 ** Bought a heat gun, Cu-sheet (0.5 mm thick), metal shears and heat conducting paste
 ** Open up the the computer (followed the pretty detailed IBM manual, chapter "changing the CPU",
-[[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 1]]
+[[Image:Mw_tp01b.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 1]]
-** "glue" an empty Al-container of a tea light by using some heat conducting paste on the ATI-chip. I thought this is useful for not blowing away the Al-container with the heat gun and for making a good heat contact to the ATI-chip. Take care that the container stands free. Stress might shift the ATI-chip during re-soldering (?).[[Image:Mw_tp02.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 2]], [[Image:Mw_tp03.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 3]]
+** "glue" an empty Al-container of a tea light by using some heat conducting paste on the ATI-chip. I thought this is useful for not blowing away the Al-container with the heat gun and for making a good heat contact to the ATI-chip. Take care that the container stands free. Stress might shift the ATI-chip during re-soldering (?).[[Image:Mw_tp02.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 2]], [[Image:Mw_tp03.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 3]]
-** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (remember it got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board... [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 4]]
+** Cover the rest by Al-foil from the kitchen. Used some metal teaspoons to fix the foil. I notice that some very fine metal particles came out of the heat gun when testing it (remember it got a new one) and probably this conducting particles could damage the circuits of the main board... [[Image:Mw_tp04.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 4]]
 ** Put a small piece of solder (1 mm diameter) into the Al-pot as an temperature indicator.
-** I tested this assembly before, outside the computer to get a feeling for distance and time. With my heat gun (rated temperature 375°C), it took about 30 s to melt the solder while holding the gun about 10 cm away. [[Image:Mw_tp11.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 5]]
+** I tested this assembly before, outside the computer to get a feeling for distance and time. With my heat gun (rated temperature 375°C), it took about 30 s to melt the solder while holding the gun about 10 cm away. [[Image:Mw_tp11.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 5]]
 ** Then the really exciting part: melt the solder in the Al-container on the ATI-chip. I gradually decreased the distance to the Al-pot until the solder got molten into a droplet. On the computer I had to come closer (distance about 5 cm) to melt the solder, indicating that I had some heat contact to the ATI-chip. :-)
-** Uff, it's still working [[Image:Mw_tp05.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 6]]
+** Uff, it's still working [[Image:Mw_tp05.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 6]]
 * Part II, getting the heat away from the GPU
-** Cut out some Cu-sheet that we can have a bridge between the GPU an the Cu-block of the fan assembly. Leave some space so that the CPU still can make contact to the Cu-block of the fan assembly.  [[Image:Mw_tp06.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 6]], [[Image:Mw_tp07.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 7]]
+** Cut out some Cu-sheet that we can have a bridge between the GPU an the Cu-block of the fan assembly. Leave some space so that the CPU still can make contact to the Cu-block of the fan assembly.  [[Image:Mw_tp06.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 6]], [[Image:Mw_tp07.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 7]]
-** Fixed it to the assembly by some self made clamps (I used the steel band from a binder). In a first version I bent the Cu-sheet around the fan-assembly, but the side wings became to high on top of the assembly so that the original fixating metal sheet (the one you have to take away in order to lift the fan assembly) pushed my Cu-sheet down, probably loosing it from the fan-assembly on the lower side. [[Image:Mw_tp08.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 8]], [[Image:Mw_tp09.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 9]]
+** Fixed it to the assembly by some self made clamps (I used the steel band from a binder). In a first version I bent the Cu-sheet around the fan-assembly, but the side wings became to high on top of the assembly so that the original fixating metal sheet (the one you have to take away in order to lift the fan assembly) pushed my Cu-sheet down, probably loosing it from the fan-assembly on the lower side. [[Image:Mw_tp08.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 8]], [[Image:Mw_tp09.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 9]]
-** Put heat conducting paste between the Cu-block and the Cu-sheet as well as between the ATI-chip and then Cu-sheet before. Make sure that the end of the bridge makes good contact to the chip and by this giving way for air entering the fan. [[Image:Mw_tp10.jpg|thumb|100px|Fig. 10]]
+** Put heat conducting paste between the Cu-block and the Cu-sheet as well as between the ATI-chip and then Cu-sheet before. Make sure that the end of the bridge makes good contact to the chip and by this giving way for air entering the fan. [[Image:Mw_tp10.jpg|thumb|50px|Fig. 10]]
 ** I also covered the CPU as well as the motherboard with some adhesive tape as electrical insulation.